Happy New Year!

What a great month December has been. 

The new crag is coming along with 14 new lines, an outstanding project, and space for perhaps the same again. Grades from 4 to 7b so far. We ran out of spits (the bit that goes into the rock). The supplier said they'd had a big sale last week someone came in and bought a box of 100. I said I didn't know who that may have been, but could I order another two boxes please ;O) Standby for topos!  

Mikey Robertson is over for Christmas and New Year, but more importantly is was his birthday on the 24th. So what better way to celebrate than to go to a new crag, bolt a new route, then climb it! We weren't the first there, one other line has been bolted at 7a. But they may be scope for another few hundred routes there.

 

Mikey on  "Hippo bath day" 6b/+ (Sella)

Castellets Ridge in two days!

Yes you heard right, and before you ask no it wasn't my idea! El Capitan Thompson is the guilty party. We managed to complete 7kms of ridge in two days possibly one of the hardest and scariest things I've done in Spain. On both nights we climbed well after dark, the weather was very kind being in the low teens. Not so cold that we couldn't function after dark and not too hot that we had to carry extra water.

With only 2km left, most of which I have done before, another half day should see us completed. Tony Pearson and I will finish it tomorrow, making it an all Army traverse.

I will be producing a topo for the ridge in the near future so watch this space and http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Orange-House/267418710706

Projects 

I managed to complete my project at the awesome new crag, "Beautiful Corner", 7c ticked on the second day. A good way to end the year. The new project 7c+ is much harder and may have to be a longer term project for me.

As the sun sets for the last time in 2011   Happy new year!

The Gripper Clipper Awards

The Gripper Clipper Awards (est 2004) are awarded to person or persons for services to comedy whilst climbing or attempting climb.

With over 10,000 user visits to the Orange House over the last 8 years it's no wonder our guests have had the odd thrill and spill. Cantina Marina hosted a Morroccan food night at the house, with most guests attending what better time to present the award.

I've been promising for several years to document this esteemed award's history with a page on the main web site. This is now under construction.

 So until that page is completed here's the latest installment from the White Coast of Epics.....

Bertie's Blunder
Bertie (retired solicitor from LMC so I will be careful with what I write) was attempting to second a route, was unable to do so and was subsequently lowered back to the ground.

Sam (the leader) then threaded the belay and prepared to be lowered back to the ground by Bertie. Having communicated with Bertie his intentions, Sam was lowered the 30m to the ground safely if a little fast. Bertie, with a face similar to that of a bull dog chewing a wasp and no skin left on his fingers, turn to Sam and said "I forgot to put the friction plate on!"

Congrats Bertie! You join an elite band poeple who are entitled to use the letters "GCA" after their names.

Other award holders are Helen and Chris for attempting to walk the Bernia Ridge North to South when it runs East to West. Sharky and Ex boy friend for being rescued by boat from the Toix Sea Cliffs, only to realise they were now stranded at the port of Altea with no shoes, no money, no car keys and the car still at Toix anyway. Paul and his missus for taking thirty one and a half hours to climb Puig Campana. The list goes on.....

So if you wish to climb on the Costa Blanca and want to avoid the "GCA" title, the following dates are available for improvers (F4 to F6c) 27th November, 22nd December and 16th January. These are 5 days courses, selfcatering and transport. Email  sam@theorangehouse.co.uk  for further details.

Autumn on the Costa

We spent the long hot summer in the Alpes. September was still very warm and the traditional DWS venues have seen some action and are becoming very popular by local and visiting climbers. The hot weather has continued well into October allowing us to push out about 40 new DWS lines from 5 up to projects likely to be 8a or harder.

"Daniel" 6c+  Rich Mayfield on the first ascent.

My fav new route is Daniel (6c+/7a), named after my grandson who was in the kayak during the first ascent. This leads into a fantastic traverse line of Ailis 7b ish so far. 60m long the odd loose hold and the pump means this line is still a project.

"Curse ya fur breathin", an open project likely to be 7c/8a.

"Curse ya fur breathing, ya slacked jawed idiot!" Pictured above has seen manys attempts over the Autumn with slow progress through the roof. It's still warm enough that I'm itching to get back today, so as soon as I've finished typing this I'm off. Wish me luck I may need it!

New DWS mini guide will be available from our web site next year, watch this space...

Hasta la Vista from the White Coast....

Easter at the Wild Side

Easter was a mixed bag of weather, after a mini heat wave we did have a few days of rain, but it never rains at the Wild Side. You can always climb on the Costa!

Rich Mayfield resting on Ergometria 8a

Little Chris resting on Ergometria 8a

I've just taken Adam Hocking to the airport after a long and fruitful trip over the winter, he did complain he only had 8b's and above left to do at Wild Side. 

A rainy day at the Wild Side need not be a wet day. Around 40 climbers from all over the world were cranking hard.

Mini Guides

Well I've been really busy with the production a new Mini Guide for Castellets and up dating the Via Ferrata Mini Guide.

Castellets is one of our closest crags being only 8km from the Orange House with a 10 minute walk in. Mostly sport climbs with good gear. The ridges is 8 km long with crags on boths sides so there really is HUGE potential for new routes here.

There are some mixed routes, these are marked on the topos so you shouldn't get caught out. 30 odd climbs listed but have also done some new routes and the upper tiers aren't included yet. Watch this space.

 

This has been a bit of an effort because although I do enjoy doing them, I'd rather go climbing ;O) This includes updates on access where it's changed and included two more via ferratas, Les Marcjes and Xorrat de Cati. Both of these are availible from the main web page at  http://theorangehouse.co.uk/gallery-2/pdf-page  then follow the instructions.

Have fun!