Great New DVD "Welsh Connections"

Sam saw a trailer for this new video on UKC and posted on a thread saying " I think the JD clip is boring!”

After quickly realising who had produced the film she said a quick "sorry" and asked if she could have a copy to review the whole thing. A few days later a DVD winged its way from Wales to Devon. Sam’s big mouth does have its uses then.

I wasn’t quite sure what to expect having not heard anything about Daves new project, but I did know without doubt that it would be well filmed, and edited to his usual brilliant standards.

Welsh Connections takes a deep look into the Welsh climbing scene through the eyes of the best people to ask, the climbers who live there. Their mood, friendly rivalry and infectious enjoyment of Welsh climbing is so motivational and inspiring that I can’t help cursing Dave for releasing the film in the dead of winter. I want to go climbing there NOW!

Welsh Connections - trailer from Bamboo Chicken Productions on Vimeo.

For anyone who has ever climbed in Wales or aspires to climb there, this film is a “must see”! A fine blend of young and not so young local activists revelling in the diversity that Welsh climbing has to offer. One thing that struck me was that the majority of these crags are very secluded, very different from the “gladiator” type environment that the Peak offers. Anyone who has climbed at Gogarth or the Llyn will know what I am talking about.

There is one minor gripe, the bouldering sequences. To me bouldering just doesn’t make good TV, and is it only training for real climbing anyway ;O). On the plus side having the bouldering inserted between the climbing sequences, means old fuddy duddies like me, get to watch and appreciate that Wales has come of age when it comes to bouldering. Sam also pointed out that they make great natural intermissions, time to put the kettle on ;O)

With possibly the best music I have heard on any climbing video I’ll give it 5 out of 5. A must see for any who’s ever climbed in Wales. Or a must see for anyone who hasn’t climbed in Wales, you’ll want to go there!

We are sure that this will be played over and over again at The Orange House and a thanks to Dave and Lynwen for sending is the copy and sorry again for the words on UKC!

The Extras

To the Rainbow

I felt quite emotional watching this extra feature with Johnny Dawes and Paul Prichard climbing on the Rainbow Slabs. Light hearted in places, Paul is unable to belay Johnny with any degree of security, so Johnny climbs it anyway, trailing a rope mostly for the purpose of top roping Paul afterwards, rather than protecting the leader.

Listening to Paul talk about coming to terms with his accident and his return to climbing definitely pulled on my heart strings. How many times have you stood at the base of crag and had near misses with stone fall? There by the grace of God go the rest of us!

click here to ORDER THE VIDEO DIRECT

New routes for all grades, and we really mean that!

Steeper than the Wildside and not in any guidebook, the Colosseo area above Sella had its first route bolted 4 years ago and slowly new routes have been appearing since.

With only 10 routes so far and massive potential this area is certainly worth a mention. Routes start at 7c so warm up before you arrive :0)

Rich Mayfield on Colloseo 7C

Echo Valley 1.5 we mentioned on here a while ago, however it has seen a little new action. This area is between Echo 1 and 2 hence the original name! (directions in Rockfax guide). 18 routes at the moment starting at a 3, yes thats correct we bolted some 3´s, great to get a feel for the Costa Blanca rock. This area has proved very popular with the Spanish and visiting climbers. The topo is behind the bar at The Orange House, or email Sam for a copy (she will ask for a donation to the bolt fund or mountain rescue).

Anni on Xmas which is a 5

Now for those that like to get wet, Rich has been busy at the Toix sea cliffs. This area also has a new topo which you can collect from behind the bar, however access to this area really needs a boat. We will be arranging something for the DWS Fest next September. 24 Routes from 5SO to potential 8s. SPLASH!!!

Winter Climbing Dates

Improvers Level One........Swanage..........3 days...£360...19th Oct
Sun Traditional Climbing...Costa Blanca...5 days...£485....24th Nov
Dartmoor touching Rock....Dartmoor........3 days...£360....10th Dec
Improvers Level Two........Costa Blanca...5 days..£485.....14th Jan
Old Man of Hoy and more..Orkneys..........2 days..£260.....22nd July

The Orkneys - what amazing rock!

More than just The Old Man!

Yesnaby Castle area

When Sam suggested we go back up to do The Old Man of Hoy, I was a little apprehensive, water proofs, stretchy salapets and brave pills were at the top of the list. But it couldn´t have been nicer!

Whilst most of Scotland was under grey rain clouds they mostly missed us and between what little rain that fell we didn´t loose a single days climbing.

Mikey making it look way too easy!

Mikey Robertson joined us for the first week, neither of us really knowing what to expect from the local crags of Yesnaby. The tides were perfect for climbing but a little low for DWS, but this didn´t stop Mikey ticking most solo-able routes as DWS´s, including Dragon Heart E5 6b or F7b for the solo. We even managed a few new lines!

Rich on a 3* HVS at Yesnaby Castle area

An insitu tyrolean to Yesnaby Castle, proved a great hit with the clients, even the routes back up the headland are 3 stars. Every time we did a great climb we thought that the best route there until we did the next route that is.

Marcus escaping the water on the tyrolean

The quality of the sandstone and the lines is just superb.

Client no.1 the lovely Sophie before the climb!

All the clients managed to get to the top of the Old Man. I conceived a cunning plan to avoid the Fumar vomit, by sending Heather up first (she proved very absorbant) we used her like a human shield which was very effective. Allowing the rest of the party to continue vomit free. So a big thanks to Heather, and I hope the green and yellow bits have come out of your hair now.

Sophie on the way down!

Anyone a member of a climbing club?

Last month Rich was invited to do a slideshow by London Mountaineering Club. The night was a great success and we raised a further 265 pounds to add to the pot.

I cant believe that on the 13th July it will be the 2nd anniversary, seems like only yesterday when we spent the night in Chedder Gorge with the 60 routes ahead of us.

For those that don´t know what Hard Rock is please go to www.hardrockchallenge.blogspot.com

Anyone that is a member of a club that has the facility for a slide show please get in touch.

A summer of Fun!

How many have The Old Man on their tick list?

Almost 2 years ago I took this photo of the Old Man through the clouds, it was an amazing day and I was more than a little sad that I had to stay behind and film from the headland. I was one half of the support crew for The Hard Rock Challenge, which saw Rich Mayfield and Mark Stevenson climb all 60 routes in the Ken Wilson book Hard Rock.

Simon had expressed a desire to climb the route the night before, one small problem we only had 2 helmets, a quick dash around the campsite found a nice bike helmet that would do the job. Taking the ferry in the mist was an amazing thing to do and the walk across to the top of the cliffs, seeing the Old Man rise up in front of us was a site I will never forget. After 40 minutes of climbing we had a break in the cloud and I started filming.

After a 2 year break we now have plans to return. We will be spending two weeks on the islands, taking in the amazing sites and hopefully I will get my chance to climb the amazing route, not wearing a bike helmet I must add!

Anyone care to join us?

Summer Diary Dates and Venues

Portland	Sport Improvers	£300	24th April 3 days
Pembroke	Intro to Rock	£300	8th May 3 days
Lands End & Sennen	Intro to Trad	£450	4th July 5 days
Dartmoor Granite	Intro to Trad	£450	18th July 5 days
Residential Youth Week	The Mill Devon	£200	9th Aug 4 days

"Lands End Long Climb" - a great easy day out!

Rich held a 3 days Improvers at Portland in December (yes it was warm enough!) and here are a few words from Ben about how he found the course useful :-

Hi Rich

I thought you might like to know that I´ve really taken on board all the tips you imparted during the coaching weekend I had with you in Portland in December.

I´ve managed to put it all to good use and in the last few weeks at Brean Down, I´ve climbing a 6a+ onsight and repointed 2 6b+s and a 6c!

The most important lesson was the methodical and structured approach to preparing for each climb. It´s now second nature and really helps me to get in the right frame of mind.

Anyway. I though you would like to know that your coaching appears to have worked wonders! Thank Ben Browne.

Rich is also available for one to one guiding throughout the summer if the above dates dont work for you, email us for more information sam@theorangehouse.net

Residential Youth Week, second year

Last summer we held a Youth Week at The Mill in Devon for under 18´s, the week was great fun and everyone gain loads of great advice from Gaz Parry and Rich Mayfield. Full board accommodation, climbing and bouldering and free entry to The Hard Rock Festival at the end of the week. Places are limited so please get in touch to guarantee a place.

Everyone about to set their first boulder problem.

Big Changes, New Routes, discounts, New Managers..........

Puig on Fire

Saturday 24th January will stick in the minds of quite a few people on the Costa Blanca. Over 20, 000 homes had to be evacuated when strong winds caused an electric pilon to fall over. The winds continued to be strong meaning the fire fighting helicopters couldn’t fly. The Orange House was without power for over 24 hours, but we didnt think we had to worry about the fire reaching us when they brought 1,000s of gas bottles down to the football field and horses came to stay on the bottom terrace. You can take a look at some of the videos on YouTube which shows the fire creeping around Puig, click the photo...

New Managers at The Orange House

January 2009 and new Managers arrive on the Costa, Gaz Parry and his partner Kate Mills (front page of Climb Mag this month) arrived with Joe. Visitors to the house in the past will remember the dogs and cats which now all live in Devon, however Joe is slightly bigger and more smelly. I am sure he would welcome the odd apple or carrot ( have you guessed what he is yet) Kate is well and truely in charge and things are running very well with new energy injected into the old house! Gaz is enjoying the sunshine and ticking lots of hard routes, I did wonder why Rich was so happy to have them both over to ryn the house.

Ticking Big Trad Numbers.....

Super G a trad E7/8 6c or 8a fell to Richard yesterday on his second attempt, Gaz on/sighted it, "we both feel E6 6b or 7b is appropriate" said Rich. Asteroid Storm E7 6b Gaz on/sighted and gave it the grade E4 6a. Several others have also had what maybe their second and third ascents. Gaz has the corrections book for Rockfax, so realistic grades will be posted shortly.If anyone is going over and wants to give any hard trad routes a go then get in touch with the boys and check the new grades first.

Gaz Parry on Asteroid Storm was E7 now E4 6a

New Easy road side Sport area

Rich has been busy bolting a new crag in between Echos 1 and 2, called Echo 1.5 funnily enough. The crag has two sector Alto (upper) and Abajo (lower) with 18 mostly very easy sports routes, this is already popular with the local Spanish climbers. The routes have modern equipment with double bolt chain lower offs. For topos email us, here a taster.

A large college group found out that Rich was naming routes at the crag and paid into the "bolt Fund" to choose a name, one guy named a route after his girlfriend, how sweet.

Discounts and roll back on prices & cheap flights....

Due to the credit crunch and the exchange rate we have dropped our prices to help those guests coming over from the UK. You can check out all the new discount bands on the website and get in touch to book. A website to check out for flights is Skyscanner, it allows you to put in your destination and it will show you all the airports can you can fly from and the cheapest flights.