Mad dogs and Englishmen

Mad Dog at Echo valley is E7 6c gets the notional grade of F8a. Or does it?

Yesterday, after cleanly tope roping the route first try and a gear inspection on the way down, I decided to lead the route. The climb went very well and I topped out with power to spare. The only regret is that I didn’t onsight it, something I’m certain is well with my ability.

So how does this compare to other routes I’ve done recently; Lynch at Ansteys was E6 6b now F7b+ is about the same length but more sustained and has more difficult moves. Devonshire cream E5 6a is more serious and more committing. The route Caribbean Blue is immensely more serious, committing, three times longer and with harder moves.

The route was originally given E8 6c by Mark Edwards in the 2001 Rockfax and downgraded in the latest to E7. I feel aggrieved that I lost the onsight due to this ridiculous over grading. At the end of the day it is a brilliant 3 star route I should have climbed years ago. I´m going to offer the grade at a very soft touch E6 6a and notional sport grade of easy 7b.

Gaz Parry is joining us for the new year and he´s psyched for some hard stuff on trad , watch this space................

New route New grade

Xtremely Mild Ard Severe

After the recent controversy on UKC about the validity of the E grade system, particularly in the upper reaches of E7 to E12 where most of us operate, it is now vitally important that a new system is invented at the soonest opportunity.

Today Rich Mayfield lead a route and without influence from Climbe Magazine or The South Face gave it the unprecedented grade of X-MAS.

This is his Story:
“I first noticed the line about two years ago, and it captivated me, I become preoccupied with it’s moves. Being instant and spontaneous, just like tree climbing, before it becomes tedious or boring. “

After virtual abseil, (standing at the bottom and visualizing abseiling) he virtually pre-practiced the crux moves from his virtual rope.

The laughably poor protection is two sky hooks both were placed on lead, but not tied off as this would have lowered the grade. The lower of the two is good but too low to protect a ground fall from the crux, the higher hook is particularly poor. See photos below.


He used two brand new Petzl Tinzl 30mm ropes, as these are the only ropes he trusted on such an audacious lead. Danger Mouse Mountaineering supplied 34 bouldering mats which were piled 8 high, this unfortunately meant that the sitting start was not possible. But he did visualize doing it before he got on the route in order to get the full X-MAS tick.

He spoke to several hundred notable climbers who had been on the line earlier and gathered vital information about the moves, hidden pockets, specific to route training program, protection and implemented all aspects into his ascent.

This on-sight (no prior knowledge) ascent (completing the route all of it) is undoubtedly the cleanest to date, it´s difficult to image a cleaner style, perhaps blind folded or-and with rocks in your pockets will be the next leap forwards!

Rich is sponsored by
Tinzl ropes, Danger Mouse Mountaineering, Debalt boltguns and Fatboy chocolate bars.

New Holiday

Following the recent growth in popularily of non climbing activities over on the Costa Blanca, we have decided to put together an "Adventure Week".

This will include: Via Ferratas ascents Gorge walk Ridge walk/scramble easy rock climb (3)

All specialist equipment is provided. For further details contact sam@theorangehouse.net

Climbing Academy

Last week Gaz Parry and Rich Mayfield visited the Climbing Academy soon to open on the 9th Dec in Bristol.

This is a dedicated bouldering wall, located not far from Undercover Rock. I spoke to Paul Twomey company director for the Academy about the facility. They've spent a lot of money creating what will be a fantastic modern wall, yet with a friendly atmosphere. Corners, aretes and grooves are in evidence along with the more usual overhangs.

A large cafe area (with underfloor heating) will have power points for laptops and wifi connection. The coffee machine was just going in and by all accounts smells and tastes great! A treatment room for when you pull stuff, will ensure you get back on the wall quickly.

You can see for yourself at www.theclimbingacademy.com

Good Luck guys!!!!! Sam and Rich Orange

Discounts, Dates and Gaz Parry ................

ALL CHANGE at The Orange House!

We have had a hard look at our prices and decided to help those visiting from the UK due to the exchange rate drop. We have taken all prices back to the same as 2005 and on top we have added a few more groups to the discount list.

Check out the main website theorangehouse for all the details, we are also giving more discounts for various groups, to include - teachers, AMA or AMI members, students etc

We have also been working on the diary for the next few months and more dates are been added all the time.

Gaz Parry is based at the house from 1st Jan so will be on-hand for one to one guiding, coaching. He will also be able to point you in the right direction should you have any questions about specific routes or areas.

Denia Bouldering Cave - Update!

UPDATE - THANKS TO AL EVANS FOR CHECKING!

I reported last week that the whole area had gone into the sea. On the day I visited the water was washing all the way up the cliffs, I could see that the cave had GONE!

I didnt think anything would survive, but I was wrong, thanks to Al for going and checking, he reported that the main cliff is still boulderable, great news.

Take care if climbing here as the sea was washing all the way up the wall and it could have made some bits unsafe.

Hardest thing I´ve ever belayed!

James and I first met at The Orange House three years ago, when he came out on our work exchange program. He stayed for free working for his food and lodgings, and he worked hard bless! We climbed together at all the steep crags, Wildside, Forada and even the odd secret crag. I remember thinking at the time that this young man would be good.

Fast forward to now, James is one of our MasterClass Coaches and a bright star in the traditional world pushing the limits and expanding what is thought possible in the UK.

I was on standby a few weeks ago to belay James on this project. The conversation with Dave Simmonite went something along these lines. “We´re getting up at 4am to start climbing at 5.30am, could I make it to the North Coast by 5am?”

This call came in at midnight and I had just driven all the back from Yorkshire. Luckily for me James found another belayer for the Alpine start, un-luckily for James he took a huge wiper from high up and had to wait to try another day.

After the light relief of the Costa Blanca DWS Festival, the call came again, but this time at a very reasonable midday. High tide at 6-ish should give us loads of time.

James hanging around over the Med....

I hadn´t seen this crag before, but I had seen photos and the video clips of James`s fall. Some crags have WOW factor when you first see them, some crags have scare factor. After careful inspection and some gained knowledge these factors usually diminish to the point where you think, “OK it´s not so bad, I´ll give it a go.”

This is different, on closer inspection the true nature of the confidence only gear, the non holds, the friable rock, a truly hideous landing and the threatening weather, all combine to push the wow and scare factors off my scale.

James rappels the lines and works the route, the Hot Aches crew set up cameras and rap lines, Dave sets up cameras with remote releases and enlists the help of Sam. Hours drift by and the tide starts to turn. Two passing climbers wonder over to see the circus and pass the time of day.

James raps the route one last time, the moves he makes on top rope somehow don´t seem real, flagging, lay backing, and dead pointing from nothing to nothing. I can´t see where the first piece of gear is either, my apprehension levels are maxing out.

Gearing up at the bottom, tide coming in fast!

I ask James if he has any special belay requests, he says, “if I come off in the first 15m don´t stop me, just lower me straight to the floor, the gear probably won´t hold anyway.”

A Hot Aches camera gets shoved in my face and the potent question gets fired, “How do I feel, about to belay James on the lead of his life? ” I know what they´re asking me, and I know why but James is in ear shot, and I really don´t want to psych him out. I reply, “looks fantastic, and James looks well strong and in control, I´m sure he can do it!” I know that´s not what they asked me, and the question gets fired again. I smile and in true politician style side step the question.

As James ties in and I put him on belay I glance nervously at the sea 50m closer than midday, only 10m more before I get wet. I form a strategy in my head for when the sea hits that boulder, I will reverse coil the ropes over my shoulder so they won´t get caught on the rock as they get washed, I´ll get wet, but no one ever died of wet, so that´s fine.

We looked at each other and I nodded. James sets off. Ten metres of rope paid out I spot him for the first 10m, then move out of the way, nothing I can do from that height. The micro goes in upside down, it would make a very poor upwards runner, but a non-existent downward runner, I stand ready to run forward and pay slack out. But there´s no need, he´s passed the crux and started throwing gear in. I breathed a sigh of relief.

Only 5 metres of dry land left, and James has 35 metres of climbing to go, I identify the highest rock to stand on, might give me 15 minutes more time.

David Simmonite doing what he does best!

James makes steady progress, and places gear at regular intervals, but I know it’s all rubbish and not likely to stop a fall. Rain squalls pass by to the North and South of us and the wind starts to gust. I willed him not to hang around and rest for too long.

Starting from the end of the ropes I started to coil them over my shoulder and jumped onto the highest rock. James looked down at me from a semi rest giving a thumb up sign, I smiled and give a reassuring return thumb. Wind and sea combine to drown out all verbal communications.

You can see the rain falling, poor James!

Light drops of rain started to fall, I swore under my breath and the sea engulf my rock turning it into a tiny island. Under my breath “come on James, you can do it!” The shower only last a few minutes and he´s off again. “Go James GO!” Belayers neck stinging hard, but this was where he fell from, I´m ready for the fall, make it as dynamic as possible, ready, eyes glued to James 40 metres above me.

The first wave hits the top of my rock turning it into dark green ice, feet flew out from under me, I looked down in shock landing heavily on my arse, SHIT! Snapped my head back to see if James had started the fall, had I pulled him off? He´s still there oblivious to my slip, I opt to evacuate, paid slack out and headed for higher ground. Thank God James topped out and disappeared.

Hardest and scariest thing I´ve belayed on.

One happy and relieved young man! Well done mate!

You can check out James´s full report on his blog - follow this link.

Deep Water Solo Festival Costa Blanca 08

(Report written by Rich Mayfield )

The 14^th to 20^th of September saw our 4^th Deep Water Solo event, this time the organization went out to Rock and Rapid Adventures which meant our normal small gathering grew to over 40 people. Special guests included James Pearson and Gibbon Slacklines from Germany.

Monday we travelled to Cala Moraig which makes for an easy introduction to the sport, good food and beer at the beach cafes, ensured a mellow day.

Nice end to the first day!

Kayaks and pedalos bobbing about in the water, proved useful as a female member of the team jumped off the Cave of Pets and hurt her back. (note to self: must warm up before taking big jumps) 30 minutes later lying on the beach and she can´t move. The help of the local life guard is enlisted, who looks uncannily like the Fonzie from Happy days. Ehhhhhhh! An ambulance whisks her to hospital. She is kept in over night for observation.

James playing with the other boys

I´d bolted the arch a few months ago for the Slack liners but on inspection they seemed to have evaporated! Wheel brace from the van and the loan of two bolts from the other slack line saw us in action. 15m long and 2 m high, only the Gibbons can walk it but most of us give it a go anyway. The Fonzie, somewhat paranoid about our antics, watches from a distance and declines our offer for him to have a go.

Ambolo is the location for Tuesday, and the call goes out “Mankini DAY!” So a quick trip to Carrefour´s mankini section. Now Ambolo is a gay nudist beach and I have felt a little uncomfortable there on previous trips. But today was to be different, after mankini- ing up the locals decide to vacate our half of the beach. We mostly play on the small island just off the beach, a beautiful little arch a few metres high, a couple of sumps to swim through and another long slack line.

Wednesday was a day off to let the water logged skin recover slightly, Keith organized the Bridge swing at the Mascarat Gorge.

That evening was the Cowboys and saloon girls BBQ, only one naked (well he kept his chaps on) cowboy in the pool so we did well. Some guys turned up as cows, don´t think they really understood what was going on, but it did make us laugh.

Thursday I´m on the Penon de Ifach with two clients. Gibbon give a demo and early morning master class in Slack lining. The team head back to the main cave at Ambolo with all the inflatable’s they can muster. Gibbon are on a roll with another new line set up.

The last day came too soon and we headed back to Cala Moraig, James made short work of the 7b`s and c´s, we find an awesomely steep and pocketed prow but can´t quite complete it, it´ll still be there next year. By this stage most of us were starting to feel the strain. SO….. just enough time for one more party, Hugh Hefner night, the girls look fantastic and so did the boys dressed as girls enough said. Roll on next September!

Spot the odd one out!!

Summer Road Trip (What summer?)

Would you trust these men?

After the horrible weather last summer I was convinced that this year was going to be great, no overseas trips for us! It all started so well, but that only lasted about 3 days. Simon a friend from Bristol had an idea to go out on his boat from Plymouth, not climbing I grant you, but a nice change and the sun was shining.

Cornwall called once summer holidays started so we headed South! I have not climbed Trad for years, in fact I cant remember the last time I actually put my rock shoes on! We decided to head all the way South and climb at Lands End. Rich choose Lands End Long Climb as he wanted to check it out for clients. What a great route, I loved it and it certainly gave me back a little bit of the climbing bug.

I laughed most of the way up!

Then off to Pembroke for a few days with Mikey Robertson, he is taking shots for the new Rockfax guide to Pembroke (out next year so watch this space) and needed the sun! we arrived to gray cloudy skies, but lunch time on day 2 and the sun came out and off he went in his little boat to get crag shots.

What a perfect day!

A crowd chilling on the cliffs, Meilee, Gav, Tim and Woody. You can read about the perfect day in Climber Magazine which is out in Oct in the Area roundup section.

Next on road trip is the new climbing wall Boulders in Cardiff with Rob and Ollie. The wall is amazing you can check out the photos on there website BOULDERS UK


North Wales was next on the map! Rich needed to get in some mountain days, and I refused to stay at home thinking I would be able to get some nice walking done whilst he scrambled around! we spent the first day in Llanberis and I counted 21 people in one day that came to say hello, all a bit strange. However, we met some great friends and made our way to The Climbers Club Hut for the week. The hut was busy so we decided to stay in our nice campervan, thinking we would get a better nights sleep, WRONG! the wind so so strong we though the van would blow over and the poor dogs spent the night with the tent flat ontop of them!

One thing I did was to walk to the top of Snowdon, why? I can blame my friend Helen, she found out I had not done it before! so up we went. I hated it from early on, too many people, too many in trainers and way too many screaming kids. Cloud on top killed any view and the building work on the new cafe made the whole experience one to forget.

Boy was I glad to get home to my own bed and at least today the sun is shining in Devon, maybe time to stop typing and take the dogs for a walk.............

Hard Rock Challenge Video Clip!

Rich has started to produce the DVD of last years challenge. For those that don´t know what we did last summer then you can check out the blog which I updated the whole way around. HardRockChallenge blog

Rich has committed to having the final DVD ready for Kendal 2009 and also for sale. The DVD will give all profits to Mountain Rescue to help to reach our final total.



For those that kept up with the action then this short film clip should wet your whistle to see the whole thing.

We are hoping that many of our friends are coming down to see us in Devon on the 15th August for the Hard Rock Challenge Festival and SW Film Festival. It really will be a great weekend and with this lovely British Summer then why not come and support Mountain Rescue, see some great adventure films and listen to some amazing live music. Check out this website for more details of what you can see over the weekend Hard Rock Challenge Website

Online Gear Shop launch!

Rock and Rapid Adventures have worked really closely with Orange House Spain and Orange House Climbing over the past few years so its nice to be able to help them promote there new ONLINE GEAR WEBSITE

Very shortly you will be able to book all Orange House Climbing Courses online...Watch this space!

Summer 2008 in the UK and Winter overseas........

Exciting Summer coming up...

3 day Masterclasses in The Peak, Portland and Cornwall. Dust off your trad rack and get out in North Wales or Devon.

Anyone from 11 to 17, 3 day residential classes in North Devon, climbing and bouldering. We have booked The Mill Adventure Centre in North Devon for 3 days of climbing and bouldering for anyone aged between 11 and 17. Accommodation, breakfast and evening meal, all coaching by at least 2 of our Masters (to be confirmed later this month). These places are limited so please get in touch as soon as you can. email sam@theorangehouse.net or call 01752 690292 to chat with someone about your options.

Costa Blanca, Morocco or Thailand in the Winter. Check out the diary for choice of Venue or Who who you want to go climbing with, Steve McClure, Gaz Parry or James Pearson.

More dates and venues will be posted over the next few week, a Womens Week in Spain with Silvia Fitzpatrick and Thailand with Gaz over Dec and Jan....

May 26th	5 days	Intro to Trad	Devon and Cornwall	Rich Mayfield	£525
June 6th	3 days	Level 2 Sport	Portland	Mikey Robertson	£250
June 16th	5 days	Intro to Trad	North Wales	Rich Mayfield	£525
July 8th	3 days	Level 1 Sport	Peak District	Lucinda Hughes	£250
August 13th	3 days	Residential Teenagers Coaching	The Mill Adventure Centre, South Molton, Devon	Masters to be confirmed	£150
Sep 22nd	5 days	Level 1 Sport	Costa Blanca	James Pearson	£525
Oct 13th	5 days	Intro to Trad	Costa Blanca	Rich Mayfield	£525
Oct 20th	5 days	Level 1 Sport	Morocco	Master tba	£595
Oct 20th	5 days	Level 2 Sport	Costa Blanca	Gaz Parry	£525
Oct 27th	5 days	Level 2 Sport	Costa Blanca	Steve McClure	£525

Gaz Parry and James Pearson Dates for April.....

Gaz is booked to come over here to The Costa Blanca for a Masterclass starting 1st April. Limited places so please email Sam or Keith as soon as you can.

I checked flights with Ryanair from Doncaster/Sheffield airport and they are only 1p with taxes!

James on The Groove, photo Dave Simmonite

´James Wonder Boy Pearson´ is also off to Font with us for a 5 days Masterclass, same dates as Spain, 1st April.

We are also planning a special weekend for Dartmoor with Leah Crane and Tom Newman so watch this space......

Steve McClure Costa Masterclass Feb 08

Scroll Down for Climb Comp Winner....

6 guys arrived Saturday with one aim - to climb harder! Did they do it?

Important to stretch first!

Sam went to visit them on day three to check progress, " I have improved loads in just 2 days" said Simon Barby aged 18 "and I´m loving it".

Blue skies, perfect temps, what more could you ask for!

Steve McClure ran up 3 8as onsite at Echo One to show the boys how it is done! Rich Mayfield followed him, but thought that showing the boys how to fall off is just as important!

After 5 days of intense but enjoyable climbing the whole group gave me a massive thumbs up. "The mix of Steve and Rich made for an amazing combination of skills" said Matt.

Steve shows the boys how its done!

And Tom said "I would just like to say thanks for such an excellent few days. The climbing was awesome and we were all really impressed by the relaxed atmosphere at the Orange House. Having Steve with us was an incredible bonus!"

So all in all a great week was had by all........

The Orange House "Red sky at night".........

Winner of Climb Magazine Competition

Climb ran a competition in their last edition. Question was, What was the name of the book that Rich Mayfield climbed all the routes in, during the summer of 2007?

Answer : Hard Rock - the Ken Wilson 1974 classic.

Rich and Mark Stevenson raised more than 8K for Mountain Rescue, you can still donate here to keep the total going up! www.mountain.rescue.org.uk/giving/hard_rock.php

Berie Stott our amazing designer picked the winner this week from a very large list. Check out her website to see what other great work she does...

Thanks to all those that entered and the winner is .....

Rachael Patch from Hampshire

Rachel we will be in touch soon to arrange details with you for your prize - 2 places on a Sun Masterclass...

SPLASH! New year New beginnings!

SPLASH!

It all started a few months ago over a few beers gathered around the swimming pool at The Orange House. How I wish that I had stayed retired 9 years when I first came to Spain, little did I know that the climbing scene sneaks under your skin!

Five years on and Orange House accommodation is going really great, we are full for most of the winter months with climbers, the summer months with families.

Rich Mayfield my husband and our number one guide is busy guiding and instructing and Ryan Glass MIA is also keeping out of trouble taking out Orange House Clients..

So why when everything is going so well would I want to shake all that up and start something new? well for those that know me they will laugh and say "sounds just like Sam"

I will blame Keith Crockford of Rock and Rapids and climbing photographer David Simmonite. They both said "we have a great idea! lets organise for the UK´s best coaches, to go to cool locations and get people to climb harder, whilst having a great holiday". Hmmm sounds like hard work to me.

Orange House Climbing was born and after a few months and lots of hard work from our designers point of view we have a great website and some fabby posters and Artwork. All thanks to the amazing Jon Tate and Berie Stott. Thanks guys we really do think you are stars! and we promise we will pay you when we make our first million.

I will update this blog often with discounts, special offers, photos from trips and lots and lots more.....